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Equally stunning by land or by sea, the Cliff Walk in Newport is a glorious example of the value of public shoreline access. This 3.5-mile trail runs along the eastern shore of Newport Neck, perched between the backyards of Newport's mansions and the rocky cliff descending into Narragansett Bay.
Though hundreds of visitors walk the trail on a busy weekend, very few ever see the cliffs and mansions from the water. Kayakers have a wonderful opportunity for spectacular views of Newport's mansions and a glimpse at an important part of our nation's history.
You can find much more information on the walking trail at CliffWalk.com.
Beginning Your Trip
The best launch site to reach the Cliff Walk is in Goose Neck Cove, on Ocean Ave near the intersection with Brenton Road. From that intersection, go east on Ocean Ave about 0.2 miles, and you will see a small sand beach on the right. Parking along the road is free, but obey the signs.
Watch the marine weather carefully before starting your trip. Though the launch site itself is well-protected, you'll shortly be thrust out into open ocean completely exposed from the south.
From the launch, paddle about 1.5 miles east past rocky points and beaches to the southern terminus of the Cliff Walk. You'll know it by the prominent mansion on Land's End.
Round Land's End, and you'll be treated to a panoramic view of Newport's cliffs, mansions, and beaches. To the left is the Cliff Walk, while far to the right is Sakonnet Point with its lighthouse seemingly marooned on a nearby rock.
The Cliff Walk
As you travel north along the Cliff Walk, you embark on a historic tour of the 1800's Gilded Age. As wealthy New Yorkers flocked to this vacationland, they built enormous mansions along this coastline. Now, several of these "summer cottages" are owned by the Preservation Society of Newport County and are open for tours.
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Perhaps the most recognizable landmark is found just beyond Sheep Point. Built by Mrs. Alva Vanderbilt to host parties, the quaint Chinese Tea House sits at the edge of a 30-foot cliff (see photo at left). Set farther back from the sea, her spectacular Marble House sees throngs of visitors each year.
A half-mile north sits the most opulent of all Newport mansions: the Breakers. Built by Cornelius Vanderbilt II between 1893 and 1895, the Breakers sits on Ochre Point like a sentry watching over the Atlantic. The Breakers is aptly named, as waves start to crest far out from the point in even mild swell, so kayakers should use extra care here.
Paddlers next pass Salve Regina University and the Forty Steps (a staircase to the edge of the sea) before reaching Easton's Beach. If there are no waves or you are experienced at surf landings, land on the beach for lunch. Otherwise, retrace your steps to Land's End and the launch site.
Points to Note
A kayaking trip along the Cliff Walk is completely exposed to the open ocean, and the bottom has many shallows and rocks that must be carefully avoided. Be cautious and keep a close eye on your chart. If you cannot paddle with an experienced kayaker, visit the Cliff Walk on foot.
Finally, there are few landing sites along the cliffs. The beaches are rocky and often wavy. Plan to eat or snack from the seat of your kayak.
The author is an instructor and guide at Charles River Canoe & Kayak in Newton, Mass,
and is the editor of NESK.
Newport is one of his favorite kayaking spots.
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