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Sound Signals
Contrary to most people's assumptions, whistles are very poor at attracting attention in the majority of emergency situations. If the conditions are bad enough to cause a capsize, the wind and waves certainly prevent a whistle from being heard at a distance.
Canned air horns, though they are much louder, should not be relied upon either, as they tend to fail when wet. Therefore, use visual distress signals instead of audible signals on windy days or if help is not close by.
There are circumstances, however, when a whistle is helpful, and even required. If you have boat trouble on a calm day, for example, and you are near a crowded beach, you might be able to attract attention using a whistle.
In addition, in fog or other daytime limited-visibility situations, the Coast Guard requires that all vessels produce an "efficient sound signal at intervals of not more than 2 minutes." Especially when near boat channels or fairways, blow a constant, 5-second blast on your whistle regularly when navigating in fog or heavy rain.
Whistles can also be used for group communication, but be sure to plan your signals ahead of time.
Kayak Lights
At times of reduced visibility (at night or in fog), the Coast Guard requires that kayakers keep "ready at hand an electric torch or lighted lantern showing a white light which shall be exhibited in sufficient time to prevent collision." A bright flashlight or headlamp probably satisfies this requirement.
Alternatively, kayakers can choose the added safety of constant lights. In this case, a kayak must have a constant white light on the stern and red/green running lights on the bow. Battery-operated lights that attach via suction cup are commercially available ($20-40).
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Rescue Equipment
All kayakers should know and practice self- and assisted-rescue techniques in realistic conditions with an experienced kayaker nearby.
Self-Rescue Gear
To be self-sufficient, learn the paddle float self-rescue as described in Sea Kayaker Deep Trouble by Matt Broze and George Gronseth.
To execute this rescue, a paddle float ($20-30) is required, and a bilge pump ($20-35) will help remove water from the cockpit once you're upright.
Assisted-Rescue Gear
Assisted rescues normally require little extra equipment. However, to assist paddlers who are tired or lack upper-body strength, a sling can provide leverage that helps the paddler onto the deck.
A sling is simply a loop of soft rope about 15 feet in circumference. Keep one handy under the deck lines whenever you are paddling in a group.
Using the Sling
(1) Set up a standard outside re-entry, with the kayaks oriented bow-to-stern.
(2) Place the paddle shaft across the swimmer's boat, directly behind the cockpit.
(3) Place the near paddle blade through the sling loop.
(4) String the rope underneath the swimmer's boat to the swimmer's side of the kayak.
(5) On the swimmer's side, wrap the double-stranded sling around the paddle shaft until the "footstep" is at the correct height.
(6) Have the swimmer face the cockpit and put the nearest foot into the sling.
(7) Using the sling as a footstep for leverage, the swimmer climbs onto the kayak, placing their belly across the paddle shaft on the back deck with their head toward the stern.
(8) Complete the outside re-entry as usual.
For occasions when a paddler is injured or incapacitated, a releasable tow system ($50-100) might be the only way to return them to safety. Though a simple rope might do, a commercial system firmly yet comfortably wraps around your waist, clips easily onto the towee's bow, and can be quickly released if you or the towee capsizes.
Anytime you are using rope on a kayak, it is prudent to have a knife readily available in case you must cut the line. Diver's knives ($10-50) are stainless steel and will attach to your PFD.
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