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Located a half-mile off the eastern shore of Cape Ann, Thacher Island has something for everyone. After circling the island to view its high granite cliffs and towering lighthouses, kayakers can land on the west-shore ramp and enjoy a tour.
The 50-acre island contains a National Wildlife Refuge, and birders will love wandering the extensive trails and observing the variety of species that nest on or visit the island.
Thacher hosts two lighthouses, the only operating twin lighthouses remaining in America. The North Tower is on the National Register of Historic Places and is open to the public. Visitors who climb the 155 stairs to the catwalk, 166 feet above the sea, are treated to a fantastic view of the Atlantic coast from Boston to Maine (see photo at right).
Numerous structures remain from the days of the lightkeepers: the keeper's quarters (photo below), oil house, whistle house, and cistern can all be viewed simply by walking the island. Visitors can also see the railroad tracks that were once used to haul coal to power the old steam-powered fog whistle.
The island received its name in 1635 when a small boat making the trip from Ipswich to Marblehead was shipwrecked on the island, with the loss of 21 passengers and crew.
Only Anthony Thacher and his wife survived, having watched their children drown in the storm. The following year, Thacher received the island from the Massachusetts Bay Colony's legislature as "his inheritance."
The easiest way to reach Thacher Island by kayak is to launch at Granite Pier, just north of the center of Rockport. From here, it is a eight-mile round-trip voyage to the island. Paddlers should keep in mind that the island is fully exposed to the open ocean, and a half-mile crossing is required.
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Plan to spend at least an hour viewing the island. Hike the mile-long perimeter trail, which allows you to stand atop the rocky cliffs and see the colonies of Great Black-Backed Gulls, Herring Gulls, and Common Eiders. This trail also leads past the keeper's quarters, outbuildings, and the North Tower. For those interested in lunch, there is a picnic table located at the ramp.
The most spectacular views of the lighthouses and shoreline rocks are from the water, so try to paddle around the island before leaving. Unless there is no swell at all, the offshore side will treat you to the wonderful sight and sound of surf crashing on a steep granite shore.
During the summer months, the Thacher Island Association maintains the island through weekly work sessions and their lightkeeper program, where a member family lives on the island for a month at a time to welcome visitors and conduct maintenance. Their website provides information and a map of the island.
Thacher is one of the few islands in Massachusetts where camping is allowed. The season runs from June 1 to September 15. Reservations are required and can be obtained by calling the Association's keeper at 978-599-2590. A privy is available, but there are no showers. As always, adhere to leave-no-trace camping guidelines, and bring your own fresh water.
If you do visit, please leave a small donation for the Thacher Island Association. This group of volunteers works tirelessly to maintain the island, and without their efforts kayakers would not be able to visit Thacher Island today.
Finally, if you don't have your own boat, North Shore Kayak offers rentals and guided tours to Thacher Island from Rockport Harbor.
The author is an instructor and guide at Charles River Canoe & Kayak in Newton, Mass,
and is the editor of NESK.
He has been to Thacher Island more than ten times and considers it one of his favorite places on the Massachusetts coast.
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